A Walk Through History: Discovering the Brazilian Quarters on Lagos Island

The Brazilian Quarters, or Popo Aguda, on Lagos Island, is more than just a neighbourhood; it is a living, breathing testament to one of the most powerful stories of return, resilience, and cultural fusion in West African history. This district was the settlement for the Agudas—emancipated Africans, primarily of Yoruba descent, who returned to Lagos from Brazil in the late 19th century following the abolition of slavery.

​Kidnapped and transported during the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade, these individuals, while enslaved in Bahia and Pernambuco, held tenaciously to their Yoruba roots while adopting Portuguese language, Catholicism, and critically, sophisticated architectural and artisanal skills. Their return, driven by a profound desire for home, fundamentally reshaped the aesthetics and socio-economic fabric of colonial Lagos.

​The most striking legacy of the Agudas is the distinct Afro-Brazilian architecture that defines the quarters. These structures are architectural masterpieces, blending traditional Yoruba spatial planning with the Baroque and Neo-Classical styles of 19th-century Brazil. Characterised by arched windows, stuccoed façades, elaborate floral carvings, iron balconies, and brightly coloured walls, houses like Water House (Ita Ọwọn) and the Schoen Building stand in elegant contrast to the surrounding colonial structures. These homes were more than just shelter; they were powerful declarations of freedom, pride, and success built by skilled Aguda craftsmen like the notable architects and master builders.

​Beyond architecture, the returnees brought new trades, becoming successful merchants, tailors, builders, and artisans. They established a vibrant, close-knit community centred around Campos Square and religious sites like the Brazilian Salvador Mosque and the Holy Cross Cathedral, showcasing the fluidity of their cultural and religious identity. They maintained cultural sensibilities from their Brazilian sojourn, including carnival-style celebrations (which influenced the modern Lagos Carnival) and unique culinary traditions.

​Today, while faced with the

while faced with the threats of modernisation and urban decay, organisations and descendants of the Agudas are tirelessly working to preserve this precious heritage. A walk through Popo Aguda is a profound journey, allowing visitors to connect with a powerful, diasporic narrative of survival, artistry, and the enduring human spirit. It is a vital chapter in the history of Lagos, showcasing how returning descendants enriched the city and left an indelible cultural mark.